Follow this guide to replace a broken or faulty screen on the Nintendo Switch game console. This procedure replaces both the LCD panel and the digitizer as a whole unit. To replace just the digitizer, follow [guide|140040|this guide]. To replace just the LCD panel, follow [guide|117395|this guide].
The Switch uses JIS screws. A JIS 00 driver works best, but you can also use a JIS 000 driver. If you use a Phillips driver, you'll risk stripping the screws.
Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Normal thermal paste isn't designed to bridge large gaps, so you'll need thermal putty or viscous thermal paste. You will, however, need regular replacement thermal paste for the CPU.
You can complete this repair without removing the heat sink and the game card reader, but it makes disconnecting and reconnecting the LCD panel ribbon cable much more difficult. Keep this in mind when you perform this repair.
Note: This guide, and the part we sell, are compatible with the original Nintendo Switch model released in 2017, as well as the newer refreshed model released in 2019 (model numbers HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01), respectively).
Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs
💡 Note: Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.
Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.
While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.
Remove the Joy Con controllers
Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console.
💡 Note: Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.
Remove the back-side screws
Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.
💡 Note: Throughout this repair, [product|IF145-167-4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
💡 Note: If you do happen to strip one of the four 6.3 mm-long Y00 screws, If you are lucky and careful, you may be able to use a Y0 bit to remove the screw(s). Please note that if you do attempt this, a bit of extra pressure will need to be applied to the screwdriver so that the screwdriver bit catches the screw.
⚠️ Caution: If you do end up removing the stripped screw with this method, PLEASE do not reuse the screw again and instead replace the screw.
Remove the top and bottom screws
Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:
One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device
Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device
💡 Note: To prevent these tight screws from [guide|13213|stripping], apply firm downward force, work slowly, and try another JIS 00 driver if the screws won't come out. Make sure the driver is fully inserted.
💡 Note: You can use a Phillips #000 screwdriver in a pinch, but you risk damaging or [guide|13213|stripping the screws]. Push down firmly on the screwdriver and twist slowly. Often, switching drivers may help, even if they are the same size.
Remove the center side screws
Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).
Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.
💡 Note: If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.
Remove the kickstand well screw
Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.
Close the kickstand.
Remove the rear panel
Open the game card cartridge flap.
💡 Note: The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed.
Lift the rear panel straight up from the bottom of the device and remove it.
💡 Note: Don't tilt it upwards while opening or else you risk breaking the plastic tabs on the top edge of the panel.
Remove the microSD card reader
Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.
Use your fingers or a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.
💡 Note: During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.
Remove the shield plate
Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.
Use your fingers or a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.
⚠️ Caution: If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.
Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.
Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.
💡 Note: You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
💡 Note: A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. This helps prevent the Switch from overheating.
You can reuse the pink thermal compound if you're careful. Keep the compound clean and make sure it makes solid contact between the heat sink and the shield during reassembly.
If you need to replace it, refer to our [guide|744|thermal paste guide|new_window=true] to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as [product|IF145-863|thermal putty|new_window=true] or [https://www.amazon.com/viscous-thermal-paste-replacement-Aspire/dp/B01GQ7TFTM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1508975365&sr=8-4&keywords=k5+pro&tag=ifixitam-20|K5 Pro|new_window=true], during reassembly.
Disconnect the battery
Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
Remove the heat sink
Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.
Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.
💡 Note: The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.
⚠️ Caution: The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:
Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn't stuck against anything,
Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.
Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.
Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.
💡 Note: You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.
💡 Note: Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Apply+Thermal+Paste/744|Apply new thermal paste|new_window=true] to the CPU before reassembly.
Apply thermal paste to all surfaces that had thermal paste applied previously. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which the Switch uses as additional heatsinking.
Remove the headphone jack and game card reader
Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64969|ZIF connector|new_window=true].
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board.
💡 Note: Before inserting the cable during reassembly, make sure the ZIF connector locking flap is [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/3m3hCiITLE1D5mZN.full|flipped up|new_window=true].
💡 Note: With the cable parallel to the board, gently slide it into its connector.
⚠️ Caution: Don't force the cable into the connector. If it doesn't insert, ensure the locking flap is flipped up, reposition the cable, and try again.
💡 Note: If your touchscreen doesn't work after the repair but your Game Card reader does, make sure this cable is properly inserted. If your Game Card reader also doesn't work, check the Game Card connector in the next step instead.
Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
💡 Note: To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.
💡 Note: If the touch screen doesn't work and/or game cards aren't detected after reassembly, you might have not fully reconnected this press connector. Carefully disconnect it and try again.
Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket.
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.
Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64969|ZIF connector|new_window=true].
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64969|ZIF connector|new_window=true].
Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
[https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|Heat an iOpener|new_window=true] and apply it to the bottom edge of the screen for around two minutes to to help soften the adhesive.
⚠️ Caution: A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.
Apply a suction cup to the bottom-left corner of the screen.
Pull up on the suction up with strong, steady force to create a gap.
💡 Note: Depending on the age of your device, this may be difficult. If you have trouble, apply more heat and try again.
Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap, making sure to only insert the pick about 5 mm.
Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.
Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re-adhering to the frame.
Insert a second opening pick into the gap to the left of the first pick.
Slide the opening pick back towards the left side of the device.
Leave the opening pick inserted.
Heat the left edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.
Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner to slice the adhesive.
Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice to adhesive.
Heat the top edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.
Continue sliding the opening pick around the top-left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive.
Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.
Heat the right edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.
Place the flat end of a spudger into the gap along the left edge of the screen.
Carefully and slowly lift the left edge of the screen, opening it like a book.
Lift the right edge of the screen straight off the device, threading the ribbon cables through the frame as you do so.
⚠️ Caution: Take care not to snag any of the ribbon cables on the frame as you remove the screen.
💡 Note: You can reuse the screen adhesive if it is still sticky. Otherwise, replace the adhesive with double-sided tape such as Tesa tape.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
If your new screen doesn’t work properly after you boot up the device, turn it back off and disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.
Take your e-waste to an [[E-Waste|R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler|new_window=true]].
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some [[Troubleshooting Problems After a Repair|basic troubleshooting]], or ask our [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/Device/Nintendo%20Switch|Nintendo Switch Answers community] for help.