Use this guide to replace the screen OLED assembly in your Nintendo Switch OLED.
The assembly includes the frame with the OLED panel and speakers attached to it. If you're replacing the OLED panel by itself, [guide|150112|follow this guide] instead.
For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your Switch. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, [[What to do with a swollen battery|take appropriate precautions|new_window=true]].
The Switch OLED uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.
Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Normal thermal paste isn't designed to bridge large gaps, so you'll need thermal putty or viscous thermal paste. You will, however, need regular replacement thermal paste when replacing the heat sink.
Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs
💡 Note: Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.
Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.
While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.
Remove the Joy Con controllers
Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console.
💡 Note: Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.
Remove the top screw
Use a Phillips driver, or a JIS driver, to remove the 2 mm-long screw securing the top of the rear case to the frame.
💡 Note: To prevent these tight screws from [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Remove+a+Stripped+Screw/13213|new_window=true|stripping], apply firm downward force, work slowly, and try another JIS or Phillips driver if the screws won't come out.
Remove the bottom screws
Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 2 mm-long screws securing the bottom of the rear case to the frame.
Remove the right screw
Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.8 mm screw securing the right Joy-Con sensor rail to the rear case.
💡 Note: To prevent these tight screws from [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Remove+a+Stripped+Screw/13213|stripping], apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won't come out.
Remove the left screw
Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.8 mm screw securing the left Joy-Con sensor rail to the rear case.
Open the kickstand
Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.
💡 Note: If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.
Remove the back-side screws
Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the two 4.3 mm screws securing the rear case to the frame.
Remove the rear case
Lift the rear case up from the top of the device and remove it.
💡 Note: If you're having trouble removing the case, use an opening pick to pry up the plastic clips.
Remove the shield plate's tape
Use the flat end of a spudger to separate a corner of the tape from the shield plate.
Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers], or your fingers, to peel back and remove the tape.
💡 Note: Store the tape in a clean space for reinstallation.
Disconnect the primary Wi-Fi antenna
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull up and disconnect the primary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable.
💡 Note: During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.
Reroute the primary antenna's coaxial cable
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to reroute the primary antenna's coaxial cable out of its slots in the shield plate.
Unfasten the primary Wi-Fi antenna
Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 4.4 mm screws securing the primary Wi-Fi antenna to the shield plate.
Remove the primary Wi-Fi antenna
Insert an opening pick between the primary Wi-Fi antenna and the shield plate.
Pry up with the pick to separate the primary Wi-Fi antenna from the shield plate.
Remove the primary Wi-Fi antenna.
Disconnect the secondary Wi-Fi antenna
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull up and disconnect the secondary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable.
Reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable
Use the point of a spudger to reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable from its slot in the frame.
Unfasten the secondary Wi-Fi antenna
Use a Phillips driver to remove the 4.4 mm screw securing the secondary Wi-Fi antenna to the shield plate.
Remove the secondary Wi-Fi antenna
Insert an opening pick between the secondary Wi-Fi antenna and the shield plate.
Pry up with the pick to separate the secondary Wi-Fi antenna from the shield plate.
⚠️ Caution: Don't attempt to completely remove the antenna yet, as its coaxial cable is still routed through the frame.
Use the point of a spudger to reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable out of its slot in the frame.
Remove the secondary Wi-Fi antenna.
Unfasten the shield plate
Use a Phillips driver to remove the six 4.4 mm screws securing the shield plate to the frame.
Use your fingers to lift the top of the shield plate up and away from the frame.
💡 Note: You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
Remove the shield plate.
💡 Note: A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our [guide|744|thermal paste guide|new_window=true] to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as [product|IF145-863|thermal putty|new_window=true] or [https://www.amazon.com/viscous-thermal-paste-replacement-Aspire/dp/B01GQ7TFTM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1508975365&sr=8-4&keywords=k5+pro&tag=ifixitam-20|K5 Pro|new_window=true], during reassembly.
Disconnect the battery
Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery.
Remove the tape
Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers], or your fingers, to remove the piece of tape obscuring the daughterboard's screw.
Unfasten the daughterboard
Use a Phillips driver to remove the 4 mm screw securing the daughterboard to the frame.
Remove the daughterboard
💡 Note: The bottom of the daughterboard is connected to the motherboard via a [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/jftCO32Q45PYVcVW.full|new_window=true|press connector].
Insert a spudger between the edge of the daughterboard and the motherboard.
Pry up with the spudger to disconnect the press connector and separate the daughterboard from the frame.
Remove the daughterboard.
💡 Note: To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
Unfasten the heat sink
Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.
Remove the heat sink
Insert a spudger between the heat sink's bracket and the motherboard.
Pry up with the spudger to separate the heat sink from the motherboard.
💡 Note: You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.
Insert a spudger in the gap between the fan and the heat sink.
Pry up with the spudger to separate the heat sink from the adhesive beneath it.
Remove the heat sink.
💡 Note: Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Apply+Thermal+Paste/744|Apply new thermal paste|new_window=true] to the CPU before reassembly.
Disconnect the fan's ZIF connector
Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable's [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64969|ZIF connector|new_window=true].
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
Unfasten the fan
Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the fan to the frame.
Remove the fan
Use a spudger to lift the fan out straight out of the frame.
Remove the fan.
Disconnect the power button board's ZIF connector
Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the power button board's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to pull the power button board cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
Disconnect the right Joy-Con sensor rail's ZIF connector
Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right Joy-Con sensor rail's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to pull the right Joy-Con sensor rail's cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
Unfasten the right Joy-Con sensor rail
Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.8 mm screws securing the left Joy-Con sensor rail to the frame.
Remove the right Joy-Con sensor rail
Remove the right Joy-Con sensor rail.
Disconnect the display's ZIF connector
Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the hinged locking flap on the display's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to pull the display cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
Disconnect the right speaker
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the left speaker's JST connector out of its socket.
Disconnect the left speaker
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the right speaker's JST connector out of its socket.
Disconnect the left Joy-Con sensor rail's ZIF connector
Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right Joy-Con sensor rail's ZIF connector.
Use a pair of tweezers to pull the right Joy-Con sensor rail's cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
Unfasten the motherboard
Use a Phillips driver to remove the five screws securing the midframe to the frame:
Three 3 mm screws
Two 4.4 mm screws
Remove the motherboard
Insert a spudger between the motherboard and the frame.
Pry up with the spudger to separate the motherboard from the frame.
Remove the motherboard.
Use your fingers to gently peel back the left Joy-Con sensor rail's cable from the frame.
Unfasten the left Joy-Con sensor rail
Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.8 mm screw securing the left Joy-Con sensor rail to the frame.
Remove the left Joy-Con sensor rail
Remove the left Joy-Con sensor rail.
Unfasten the bottom rail
Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3 mm screws securing the bottom rail to the frame.
Remove the bottom rail
Remove the bottom rail.
Separate the power board button's adhesive
Use your fingers to gently peel back the power board button's cable from the frame.
Remove the power button board
Use your fingers to pull the power button board out from its plastic slots in the frame.
Remove the power button board.
Apply isopropyl alcohol
Apply a few drops of [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/iFixit-Adhesive-Remover-for-Battery-Screen-and-Glass-Adhesive/IF145-400?o=4|adhesive remover|new_window=true] or high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol inside the battery well along the top edge to weaken the adhesive.
💡 Note: If you are using adhesive remover, [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iFixit+Adhesive+Remover+Preparation/118537|follow these preparation steps first|new_window=true].
Tilt the top edge of the device upward to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the battery.
Hold for 1-2 minutes to allow time for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.
Separate the battery's adhesive
Insert an opening pick into the gap between the battery and the wall of the battery well.
Carefully dig the tip of the opening pick underneath the battery and slide it along the edge to begin slicing the adhesive.
⚠️ Caution: Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
Leave the opening pick in place and apply a few more drops of adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol inside the battery well.
Tilt the top edge of the device upward and wait 1-2 minutes for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.
Continue sliding the opening pick deeper along the top edge of the battery, slicing more of the adhesive underneath.
Once there's enough room, insert a [product|IF145-101|plastic card] underneath the battery and slowly pry the battery up.
💡 Note: Apply more isopropyl alcohol if you have difficulty prying.
⚠️ Caution: Be careful not to bend the battery as you pry.
Remove the battery
Pry up with the plastic card to completely separate the battery's adhesive.
Remove the battery.
💡 Note: Use adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean up any remaining adhesive left behind in the battery well before you install the new battery.
💡 Note: If your new battery does not come with pre-installed adhesive, [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Pre-Cut+Adhesive+Sheet/113604|follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive|new_window=true] on the bottom of the battery.
⚠️ Caution: Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.
Only the screen OLED assembly remains
You're now left with the Screen OLED Assembly.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
For optimal performance, [[Battery Calibration|calibrate your newly installed battery|new_window=true]] after completing this guide.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
Take your e-waste to an [[E-Waste|R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler|new_window=true]].
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some [[Troubleshooting Problems After a Repair|basic troubleshooting]], or ask our [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/Device/Nintendo%20Switch%20OLED%20Model|Nintendo Switch OLED Answers community] for help.